With 2011 officially over, thoughts are turning to what lies ahead in the next twelve months. Judging by the Spring Collections that were revealed in the final months of last year, one of 2012’s more prominent trends is going to draw inspiration from one of the most glamorous and artistic eras of fashion: the 1920s, and in particular 1920s America. Interest in the 20s has been increasing since the success of period dramas such as Boardwalk Empire and, to a lesser extent, Downton Abbey, and with a new film adaptation of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby planned for release at the end of the year, clothes, accessories and hairstyles of the decade are returning to runways and to the high street. Although 1920s pieces have briefly appeared on runways over the past few years, the time has never been right for the style to take off on a larger scale; 2012 may be that time, as many of society’s current interests are compatible with the ethos and attitude that the 20s have come to embody.

In this seminal American novel, F. Scott Fitzgerald uses vivid description of colour and texture to communicate the glamour of the period.
When one thinks of the 20s, the first image that probably comes to mind is that of the iconic flapper girl. The 1920s marked a huge period of change for women, released from restrictive clothing like corsets and crinolines, able to rebel against the “accepted” image of femininity that had dogged them for years. 1920s women received a boost in confidence, shortening hair length and hemlines, smoking cigarettes in public and thinning the line between genders as they adopted a flat figure and boyish clothing. This hint of androgyny is already present in current fashion, hence it is a perfect time for revival of 20s clothing such as tailored suits and sports jackets. The flapper girls of the 20s were seen as dangerous “New Women” who indulged in excessive make-up, alcohol, and listened to jazz. Their boyish figures were offset by sensual red lips and dark eyes, whilst they reeked of luxury and decadence, dripping in lace, pearls, and feathers. The first association of these aesthetics with the word “flapper” came with the 1920s film The Flapper, starring Olive Thomas, who like various other actresses of the period adopted the look in a professional capacity.
As for the kinds of clothing that defined the period, almost everything that could be changed was changed, and drastically so. Long skirts were shortened, whilst soft outlines and curvy figures were hardened and flattened. Some women went as far as to bind their breasts in order to enhance the straightness of their silhouette. What is commonly called a “flapper” dress is the simple 20s shift dress, often embellished with fringe, tassels, or beading to create movement as the woman walks, drawing all eyes in the room. Clothes themselves were loose and comfortable, but their material was thin and light, hinting at the sensual form that lay concealed beneath. Chiffon, silk, and crepe were popular fabrics, whilst colours remained muted; pastels, creams, and other soft shades. Dropwaist skirts and square shoulders were popular for the way they gave the illusion of height and dominance – women who could finally pursue careers began to learn the meaning of power-dressing.
Accessories were also extremely important in the overall look and feel of the 20s. The newly adopted bob hairstyles were short and sophisticated, but also simple. They were livened up with jewelled or beaded headbands, or a silk scarf wrapped and tied around. Gloves enhanced the image of glamour and luxury, either in lace (in different colours, including white and red) as well as fabrics like silk or satin. Accessories could be large and powerful, an expression of femininity that contradicted the androgynous aspects of the style, constantly causing a male onlooker to question the nature of the woman before him. The bob hairstyle, of course, was the most obvious rebellion against conventional female appearance and was delightfully easy to achieve. The dramatic shape of the style framed a woman’s face, drawing attention to the allure of those red lips and smoky eyes.
Expect to see elements of 20s fashion appearing in high street stores over the coming weeks; in fact, many already have, especially accessories. They have already caused quite a stir on the runway, with Ralph Lauren’s 1920s inspired collection for Spring 2012 catching the attention of several critics and bloggers who have quickly made the connection between the era in fashion and the upcoming film adaptation helmed by Moulin Rouge director Baz Luhrman. With many potential 20s trends already popular in the world of fashion such as block colours, fur, square cuts and angular silhouettes, 2012 is sure to produce an interesting modern take on the era of Fitzgerald’s novel.
- Kat Humphries
Sources and Further Information:
Ralph Lauren 2012 Spring Fashion Show – 1920s-Inspired Fashion – petite.about.com
1920s era roars back in fashion and in film – denverpost.com
1920s fashion: women’s & men’s 20s fashion trend – fashionising.com
The Great Gatsby: return of 20s fashion – fashionising.com
Ralph Lauren offers timely take on The Great Gatsby – guardian.co.uk
1920s splendour for 2012 – Carey Mulligan and The Great Gatsby – fashion-mommy.com

















